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Underneath the calcium buildup is good aluminum. It will take CLR and tons of buffing, but it will eventually look new again. |
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After using CLR and steel wool you can start to see the good aluminum appear. The next step is to start polishing using a three grade polish. |
 Using a drill and a buffing wheel, I applied the first grade of polish and worked my way up. It took about a week to polish all of the screen door  |
Nikki finishing up some cleaning on the screen door. Wow! Almost looks like new! |
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That’s from using the drill; imagine what my face looked like |
what three grade polish did you use? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteActually I need to update this. I'm not using a 3 grade polish but more of a 2 grade polish with three steps. I'm only using Nuvite grade F7 (first pass) and then a Nuvite Grade S (finishing pass). F7 is 90% of the job. The last 10% is using Nuvite grade S just to smooth things out. Here are the steps:
Delete1. start with a circular buffer with Nuvite F7
2.When you are happy with the consistency, use a cyclo buffer with F7 and remove all the swirl marks
3.After you have something close to a mirror finish, use the cyclo again with Grade S.
Hi there-thanks for your great blog! We are renovating a 1972 27' Overlander.
DeleteAre you applying any sort of clearcoat after polishing the door frame?
Well, we have found that clear coating after polishing isn't totally necessary and their are other ways of protecting the finish such as oils. I'm not really sure what we are going to use after the level of shine has bee achieved. I will do more research and when the time comes and will let you know what I have decide to do. I notice you specifically asked about clear coating the door frame. Do others only clear coat the door frame?
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